Rising to over 700 feet above sea level, on the outskirts of Belfast, with panoramic views of Belfast Lough, Carnmoney Hill is just one in a series of hills that surround the city. It's the Borough of Newtownabbey's most easily recognisable feature and its links to the history and folklore of the area it towers above date back hundreds of years.  

The hill, which takes it's name from the Irish Carn Monadh, Cairn of the Bog, is the remains of a volcano dating back millions of years and it's thought there has been a cairn on the summit since the Bronze Age.While the prehistoric rath or fort known as Dunanney dates back some 1200 years and, in 1556, the Earl of Essex, Lord Deputy to Elizabeth 1st, camped here with his troops whilst he tried fruitlessly to negotiate a treaty with the local Irish chieftains.

Carnmoney Parish Church and Graveyard stand in the shadow of the hill, and both are believed to be the on the site of an early Christian settlement dating back to the 5th century, the time of St Patrick. The old church was demolished in 1856, to make way for the present building. However, an ancient well named after St Brigid can be found in the graveyard.

The graveyard is also the resting place of many key figures in local history, including Nicolas Grimshaw, who, in 1784, founded Irelands first cotton mill, and James Joseph Biggar, one of the most controversial figures in Irish - British politics, who supported Home Rule and became MP for Cavan in 1874. Of particular interest is the Celtic Cross, which marks the grave of General James Smyth.

Standing eighteen feet high, with intricately carved decorations, the cross is regarded as one of the finest pieces of ecclesiastical art in Ireland. Smyth was born on 25th January, 1816, at Coole Glebe, Carnmoney. He was the second son of the local vicar and joined the Royal Artillery at the age of 17.

He fought in the Kaffir War of 1835, and in a career spanning 37 years he held numerous positions, including Secretary of the Royal Artillery Institution at Woolwich, 1839 - 1841, and Director of Military Studies 1850 - 1852.Before his death in 1887, and following his retirement from the army, Smyth lived at Tobercooran House, which was later  home to Lillian Bland, who was to gain notoriety by becoming the first woman in Ireland to fly.

Bland was a granddaughter of the Dean Of Belfast, and was known for her work as a press photographer and sports journalist. She was so inspired by Louis Bleroit's cross channel flight of 1909, that she built her own bi - plane glider called, the Mayfly. In 1910, in a field on Carnmoney Hill, with four Police officers hanging onto the wings, the Mayfly left the ground for the first time.

It was Bland's intention to manufacture aeroplanes commercially and later that year she installed a 20hp engine. Unfortunately, due to lack of finances, she was forced to give up and the Mayfly was later presented to The Dublin Flying Club.

Like many parts of Ireland, the area has had a long association with witchcraft and the Carnmoney Witch Trial of 1808, helps substantiate these connections. Mary Butters, the 'Carnmoney Witch,'  was accused of killing three people through the use of herbalism, when she attempted to return the butter to the milk of a cow owned by a local tailor.

She was convicted of the charge and imprisoned in Carrickfergus goal. But following the assizes she was released by a proclamation, suggesting that the event was seen as an unfortunate accident.

In recent years the hill was earmarked for commercial development, which included provision for a golf club. But following opposition from local residents, and with agreement from  Newtownabbey Borough Council, 163 acres of the hill, including wetland, grassland and woodland are now in the care of the Woodland Trust.

More than 53000 trees have been planted and the area is now one of the largest native woodland creation projects in Northern Ireland. New paths have been built, a warden system has been set up to help protect what is now a designated nature reserve, and the hill is a popular venue for walkers and school outings.

The hill has a wide variety of habitats including floral meadows, shrub-land and semi-natural wood land and provides a valuable habitat for wildlife. The project has been so successful that Buzzards have returned to the hill and can occasionally be seen soaring above it's summit.

Carnmoney Hill is accessible by car or public transport and is a truly unique piece of living history right on Belfast's doorstep. Why not come and see for yourself ? You wont be disappointed at what is has to offer. 

© John Rooney 2008